palmer



(No Model.).

5 Sheets-Sheet 1. G. H. PALMER.

STRAW BRAID SEWING MACHINE.

Patented"'J'ul.y 20, 1886.

1520mmg' 12mm. MA.

N. PETERS. Fhalo-Lilhagnphar, Wahingtnn. n..c.

(No Model.) 5 SheetsSheet 2. G. H. PALMER.

STRAW BRAID SEWING MACHINE. No. 345,802. Patented July 20, 1886.

J 0 ZCHW. CYZLZ, 6. .BJ

N. PEY'Ens. momumo n w, Walkinglon. n. c.

(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 3.

G. H. PALMER. I

STRAW BRAID SEWING MACHINE.

No. 345,802. Patented July 20, 1886.

n. m'zns. Pholo-Lilho nphcr. Wnhiniicn. o. c.

5 SheetsSheet 4.

(No Model.)

0. H. PALMER.

' STRAW BRAID SEWING MACHINE.

Patented July 20, 1886- (No Model.)

5 Sheets-Sheet 5. G. H. PALMER.

STRAW BRAID SEWING MACHINE.

Patented July 20, 1886.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES H. PALMER, OF NEXV YORK, N. Y.

STRAW-BRAlD-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 345,802, dated July 20,1886.

Application filed January 29, 1886. Serial No. 190,197. (No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Be itknown that I, CHARLES H. PALMER, a citizen of the United States,residing at New York, in the county of New York, State of New York,have'invented certain new and useful Improvements in Straw-Braid-SewingMachines, of which the following is a specification, reference being hadtherein to the acco mpanying drawings.

My invention relates to improvements in machines for sewing overlappingstrips of straw braid together to form a strawhat or like article; andthe object of my invention is to simplify the construction of themachine and to render it more more certain and effective in use.

To this end my invention consists in improvements invarious parts of themachine, among others in theimproved means for raising the presser barand foot from the throatplate when forming the button or tip of the hat;in the improved construction of the workguide and manner ofattachingitto the presser-foot, by which it may be readily removed,changed, or replaced; in the construction of the separator orpartingstrip, which bears constantly on the throat-plate to close anyspace between the throat-plate and workguide; in the construction of thebraid or plait guide, by which two adjustable guides are formed, one foreach edge of the braid; in the connection of the adjustable pivotedbraidguide with a gage or scale of peculiar construction, in improvedmeans for changing and regulating the tension, and in the peculiartension devices themselves; in the improved arrangement for steadyingthe movement of the presser bar and foot, and in various otherimprovements in details of construction more fully hereinafterdescribed, and set forth in the claims.

The accompanying drawings show the operative parts of a sewing-machineconstructed according to my invention, and in such drawings Figure 1 isa side elevation of such a sewing-machine. Fig. 2 is a front elevation.Fig. 3 is a plan view, the gooseneck and pit man being shown in section.Fig. 4. is a sectional view of the braid-guide devices for ad-- justing.Fig. 5 is a cross-section on line 00 w of Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is a plan Viewof the thread gripping and releasing devices. Fig.7 is a perspectiveview of the tension pad, spring, and rod. Fig. 8 is a section throughthe presser-bar, showing a device for lifting the presser-bar from thethroat-plate. Fig. 9 is a crosssection of the washer tension. Fig. 10represents details of the same. Fig. 11 is a detail view of the slidingarm which actuates the braid-guide. Fig. 12 is a detail perspective Viewof the presser-foot, work guide, and partingstrip or separator. Fig. 13is a detail plan view of the presscrfoot, workguidc, and parting-stripor separator. Fig. 14 is a transverse vertical section on the line m m,Fig. 3. Fig. 15 is a detail perspective "iew of the presser-bar and itsswinging arm. Fig. 16

is adetail perspective view of the needle-bar and itsoperatingconnections.

The machine belongs to that type of sewing-machines which sewsoverlapping rows or plaits of straw by means of a straight reciprocatingneedle, in connection with which operates a rotary looping-hook carriedin a driving-shaft below the throat-plate.

The bed-plate A of the machine is cast with the goose-neck B, and is ofthe usual or any desired form. In the frame is journaled the drivingshaft 0, carrying on one end the grooved pulley D, to which power istransmitted by a band from the balance-wheel, or by any suitable means.The driving shaft is encircled by an eccentric, which shaft through apitman, F, operatesthe needle-bar, and said driving-shaft also operatesthe feedmotion through an eccentricslceve near its forward end. Thefeeding device itself may be any suitable four-motion feed which willgive a compound rectangular movement to the feed-surface; but I preferto use the feed-motion described in my application for Letters Patentfiled in the United States Patent Office January 7, 1886, Serial No.187,861. The driving-shaft C also carries upon its ex treme forward endthe revolving looper G.

H represents the needle-bar,which reciprocates vertically above the workor throat plate. It is connected by an arm, 1, to a rock-shaft, 2,whichpasses through the horizontal part of the goose-neck, and is connectedbycrank 3 with a pitman, F. l

I represents the presser-bar, which slides vertically for a limiteddistance in :1 depend ing arm of the frame,and has the presser-foot Jsecured to its lower end. I have devised a simple means ofintermittently relieving the pressure of the presser-foot on thematerial when the button or tip of the hat-crown is being formed, atwhich time material must be turned in a very small circle, with whichthe pressure of the foot interferes. This consists of a swinging arm, 4,hinged directly upon the presser-bar, so as to move horizontally, andwhich is held back against the end of the gooseneck by a small spring,5. This arm is struck at the moment when the feed-surface is passingbelow the plate by a stud, 6, on the arm 1, (which, as before stated, issecured to the rock-shaft 2,) the effect being to slightly raise thepresser-bar and presser-foot from the braid while the needle is in thebraid. In ordinary use however or after the ti has been formed,

the arm at would be swung forward, so that the movement of the arm 1cannot affect it. The spring 5 is bent into an angle, so that it may besnapped into place by moving the arm either out or in, its purpose ofholding the arm against the end of the goose-neck being accomplishedonly when the arm is swung inward. \Vhen the arm is swung outward,itpasses over the angle in the spring, which then produces no effect uponit.

The presser-foot J, which is secured in the usual manner to the lowerend of the presserbar, carries the worleguide K, which is of novelconstruction. In machines of this class it is often necessary to removethe work-guide and replace it with another, or to moveit out of the wayfor various reasons. It is usually necessary to remove and replace oneor more screws before the change can be effected,whieh takes time,and isa constant source of annoyance. In this case the presser foot isprovided with a standard, 7, having a horizontal guide-pin, 8. On thispin slides the barrel 9, which is attached to or made integral with thework-guide plate K, which extends out parallel to the prcsser-foot andrests upon the braid near the needle-slot. The barrel .9 is moved uponthe guide-pin 8 by pivoted lever 10 on the presse1'foot,l1aving apeculiarlyshaped slot, 11, and a handle, 12. The slot 11 receives astud, 13,. on the sliding barrel, and the shape of the slot is such thatwhen, by turning the lever to its full extent the barrel is moved outtoward the end ofthe pin, it may be slipped off such pin and a newwork-guide put on, but it will hold the barrel and guide in place on thepin at any other point; hence the work-guide may be moved back and forthon the pin to accommodate the width of the braid at the will of theoperator.

Pivoted to the side of the work-guide is a thin plate, 14 which is keptconstantly pressed down by a light spring, 15, so that it bears upon thebraid. The purpose ofthis is to close the space between the work-guideand the incoming braid, which runs underneath said work-guide, caused bythe rising of the presser-foot, and thus prevent the previously-sewed26, on the frame of the machine.

braid from being crowded under the guide. This avoids the. use of theparting-strip or separating-plate ordinarily used, which is always inthe way in sewing rough edged braids.

The braid-guide, which gives direction to the material before it reachesthe work guide and presser-foot, is illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4. itconsists of two independent devices, L M, which are used in connectionwith anindicatinggage, N. The part L is a bent wire pin having one endturned at a right angle, to bear upon the outer edge of the braid, andis longitudinally and laterally adjustable and secured by means of aset-screw, 16, in the frame of the machine. The part M, which guides theinner edge of the braid, is a curved plate, shaped on one edge toconform to the curved throat-plate. Itis pivoted upon a projection, 17,of a slotted and sliding bar, 1.8,and is set by a screw, 19, so that inaddition to its ordinary adjustment by means of the sliding bar 18, itcan, after the screw .19 is loosened, be thrown over backward, turningon the projection 17, so as to be quite out of the way, thus avoidingthe removal of the gage from the machine, which has heretofore beennecessary in the various shaping of hats. The longitudinal movement ofthe sliding bar'18 is accomplished by means shown in Fig. 4. The saidbar is provided' on its inner side with a longitudinal groove, (shown indetail plan view, Fig. 11,) and with horizontal and vertical slots 20and 21. The plate is connected to the frame of the machine by ascrew-pin, 22, (see cross-section, Fig. 4,) which passes through thehorizontal slot 20. Upon this pin is mounted a spool-shaped sleeve, 0,the inner head of the spool 23 having a stud, 24, which enters thevertical slot 21, and the outer head having a milled edge. By turningthe head 25 the stud 2%, moving in the vertical slot 21, will cause thebar 18 to slide horizontally, its horizontal slot working over the pin22. The disk or head 23 has agage or scale cut on its edge, which may bemade to register with a pointer, The head of the pin 22 is countersunkin a nut, 25', having a female thread and a milled edge,which may beturned up against the spring-washer 27, which is interposed between nut25 and the spool-shaped sleeve to regulate its freedom of movement andto lock itin position. Aspring and flat washer, 28 and 29, areinterposed upon the pin between the bearing-faces, as shown in Fig. 4.The pin 22 is flattened, as shown in Fig. 5, in order to lit the washer27 and prevent thelatter from turning. An aux iliary pointer, 30, is apart of a segmental slotted disk, 31, (see Fig. 14,) arranged to slideupon the face of the head 23, and to be set by a screw, 32, at anydesired point to aid the operator in reading the gage when properly setto verify the position of pointer 26. This arrangement provides foraperfectly-accurate adjustment of the braid-guide and in connec- IIC Iii

tion with the adjustable guide-pin L for the perfect guiding of theincoming braid.

The thread-check device is illustrated in Figs. 6 and 7 in a detailperspective view, and also in Fig.1in its relation to the machine. To alug on the front of theupper guide for the needle-bar and presserbar aresecured by a single screw, 33, the guard 34 and the leaf spring 35, theend of the spring being turned at an angle to enter a recess in theframe to prevent the liability of injury. The spring presses outwardagainst a peculiar frictionpad, 36, having a slot, 37, and two pins, 38,which enter holes in the frame, and is kept in place by the guard 34.The thread passes down through the slot 37, and is held taut by the freeoutward pressure of the spring. This pressure is relieved at the propertime by the action of arod, 39, Figs. 6 and 7. This rod is hinged to theconnecting-rod F, where itis secured by a screw, but permitted to turneasily. The forward end of the rod 39 passes through a hole in theframe, forming at that point a tension-block, and is provided with abook, 40, extending outside of the spring 35. By hinging the rod 39 tothe connecting-rod F below the horizontal line the push and pull motionis imparted by the rise and fall of the connecting-rod F, the pushmovement carrying the hook outward, so as to cause the spring to bindthe thread against the pad on the upward movement of the needle-bar, andthe pull movement drawing the spring inward and relieving the thread atthe time the needie is at itslowest point and the stitch is beingformed.

Ihave devised an improved construction for the adjustable washer-tensionlocated at the rear of the horizontal part of the gooseneck, which isshown in Figs. 9 and 10. The object of this improvement is to enable theoperator to increase the tension temporarily while the tip is beingformed,without the necessity of disturbing the adjustment.

The washers 41 are mounted on a vertical pin, 42, which is threaded atits upper end for the milled nut 43. Mounted on the pin above the upperwasher are two cups, 44 and 45, which inclose a spring, 46, surroundingthe pin and bearing on the bottom of cup 44. The pin 42 is splitvertically, and the cups are therefore provided with a slot and tongue,by means of which they are slipped over it. Between the upper cup andthe adjusting-nut are mounted a lever, 47, and a disk, 48, the latterhaving a tongue and slots, (both shown in plan and elevation in Fig.10,) the disk having an inclined and recessed edge, and a stop, 49,while the lever is formed with a beaded or raised portion. Theadjusting-nut bears firmly against the disk 48, and hence if the leveris turned so as to act on-the inclined disk it will press down the uppercup and spring and press the washer closer together, thus increasing thetension, while the adjusting-nut is not disturbed.

A device is also provided for steadying the movement of the presser barand foot. It consists of a curved arm, 50, Figs. 1 and 2, which isfirmly attached to the presser-bar just above the foot, and which passesacross and behind the needle-bar to a point where it engages with a fiatsteady-pin, 51, on the frame by means of a slot, 52. The arm 50consequently travels with the prcsser-bar, and as it extends so far toone side it completely prevents any turning of the foot, since the pressure on the foot is about central between the presser-bar and steady-pin.The steady-pin has a cylindrical lower end, so that it may be turned inthe frame to take up any lost motion. It is held by a set-screw, 53. k

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the presser-bar, and withthe arm connected to and operating the needle-bar, of a swinging armhinged to the presser-bar and adapted to be thrown into and out ofconnection with the arm which operates the needlebar, whereby when inconnection the presserbar is positively lifted, substantially as described.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the presserbar, and withthe arm connected to and operating the needlebar, of a swinging armhinged upon the resser-bar, and a spring for holding said swinging armwhen swung inward so as to be operated by the rockshaft, substantiallyas described.

3. The combination, with the presser-foot having a horizontal guidepin,ofa work-guide having a sliding barrel mounted on such pin and a leverhaving an open slot embracing a stud on the barrel for adjusting andretaining the latter on the pin, and yet permitting the barrel to bereadily removed therefrom, sub stantially as described.

4. The combination, with theverticallymovingpresser-barandpresser-foot,thethroatplate, and thework-guide, of a plate pivoted to the work-guide and a spring forpressing such plate constantly downward against the material beingsewed, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

5. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the main frame andbraid-guide, of the braid-guiding pin L, j on rnaled in said frame, andcapable of turning axially and sliding longitudinallyin said frame, andthe set-screw 16, substantially as described.

6. In a sewing-machine, a braid-guiding pin, L, sliding in the mainframe of the machine, and also adapted to turn axially therein, substantially as described.

7. In a sewing-machine, the bi'aidguide proper, M, having a combinedsliding and pivotal movement, in combination with means for regulatingboth movements, substantially as described.

8. In asewing-inachine, the braid-guide pivoted to a sliding plate, incombination with a revolving disk connected to said sliding plate, andhaving a gage or scale on its periphery, substantially as described.

9. In a sewingmaehine, the combination, with the main frame, of thesliding plate 18, carrying the braid-guide, the pin 22, connecting saidplate to the main frame, the sleew e O, mounted on the pin 22, having agage or scale, and connected to the plate 18, and a pointer on the frameof the machine adjacent to the scale, substantially as described.

10. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the main frame, of thesliding plate 18, carrying thebraidguide, the pin 22, connecting saidplate to the main frame, the sleeve 0, mounted on the pin 22, havingagage or scale and connected to the plate 18, a pointer on the frame ofthe machine adjacent to the scale, and an auxiliary pointer adjustablymounted on sleeve 0, substantially as described.

11. In a sewing-machine, the combination of the sliding bar 18, carryingthe braid-guide, the pin 22, sleeve 0, nut having a recessed head andmounted on the pin 22 independently of the sleeve, spring-washers 27 and28. and flat washer 29, substantially as described.

12. In a sewing-machine, the combination, to form a tension device, of afriction-pad se cured to the frame and slotted to receive the thread, aspring for pressing the thread outward against the pad, and a rodconnected to the pitman-rod situated at the rear end of the machine, andmeans to pull the spring inward to release the thread at the time theneedle is at its lowest point, substantially as described.

13. In a sewing-machine, the combination,

with the pitman-rod F, of the pivoted rod 39, secured to said pitman ata point below the horizontal plane at which it passes through thetension-block, as shown, and having ahook at its front end, whereby atthe downward vertical movement of the pitman-rod, giving a downwardmovement to the needle-bar, the spring is drawn away from thefriction-pad 36, thereby releasing the thread at the moment of time theneedle is at its lowest point and the stitch is being formed,substantially as described.

14. The combination of the split pin 42, the tension-washers 41, thecups 44 45, the spring 46, the beaded lever 47, nut 43, andthe slotteddisk 48, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

15. The combination, with the presser-bar, of 5 5 an arm fixed thereonand extended to and sliding on a steady-pin on the frame beyond theneedle-bar, said guide or steady-pin having a flattened end and a roundvshank, and being held in the frame by a set-screw and capable of beingturned to the right or left to compensate for wear in the slot in theend of the arm, substantially as described.

16. In combination with the braid -guide scale and stationary pointer,an auxiliary pointer carried by a segmental slotted disk and means foradjusting said disk upon the braid-guide scale, substantially asdescribed.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

CHARLES H. PALMER.

Witnesses:

J AMES A. MoDownLL, JOHN H. LUOKEN.

